Hawaii Big Island Surf Guide
I was asked to put together a Big Island Surf guide for someone that was having a house guest for a week. I am usually reluctant to share this type of information due to a couple reasons:
- The Big Island is a tough place to locate surf unless you know where you're going. It's not like Oahu or Maui where you can step out of your hotel room and be nearby several good spots.
- Once you get to the surf spots; they're generally pretty imperfect waves with raw wave energy. Most spots do not have nice sand to paddle out, but craggily lava rocks.
- It can be pretty inconsistent Island-wide. It is a BIG island and you will be rewarded if you have you the time to chase swells around the island.
With that in mind, I will share the major spots on the Big Island that you would want to surf if you are a visiting surfer.
Clockwise
Starting with North.
Waipio
Valley:
Awesome
beachbreak, but it’s hard to get to. No beach facilities and you will need a
4x4 vehicle or walk to get to. You have to surf at sunrise, because winds
pickup by 9am everyday. It breaks on North to East Swells. A must see for any visitor.
East Side:
Honoli'i:
The main spot on this side of the island and picks up majority of swells (Southeast
to Northeast) and works on all tides. Best in the morning time. Great
for all skill levels and can get really good. Best bet when on the
east side.
 |
| Honoli'i |
Keaukaha (Richardsons, 4-Mile, Small Channels):
Works best on north or east
swells. Great for swimming around and hanging out since it outer
reefs protect inside to make beach area calm. Reef for surfing is
deceivingly dangerous. Big underwater reef heads scattered around.
Seems harmless, but be careful. Can be localized. Respect others in
the water and you'll be fine.
South East:
Pohoiki Area:
Several spots make up this area (1st Bay, 2nd
Bay, Shacks, Bowls).
When driving down you will hit a T in the road; To
the right (south) is the boat ramp and what is called First Bay. It's
a reef that breaks right into a mini bay. It’s pretty much a
novelty wave and generally not worth it. Its most likely a bunch of
spongers and little groms on it.
Look
passed this little wave to the south shoreline and you will see 2nd
bay which breaks along the right side of the bay. Generally, it is
better than it looks, so go out! It's hard to judge from the parking
area, you just have to paddle out. The wave is a kind of a mushy, right
on the outside with a cleaner inside section. This is a good place to
get your feet wet. Mellow crowd. Out passed 2nd Bay is
3rd Bay, which is a big wave spot and needs a large South
Swell to break. Mostly tow in surfers.
Make
sure to be discreet in the parking area of the boat ramp (all of
pohoiki for that matter). Thefts happen, so be smart.
Out
passed the boat ramp jetty (out to sea) is Elevators. This breaks on
bigger swells and will connect into 1st Bay. To the
immediate left is dead trees which is super shallow ledgy wave.
On
the other side of the headland looking north is Shacks and Bowls.
Shacks is in front of the lifeguard tower and is usually mushy and
longboardable. It turns into a barrel on big straight south swells
and low tide. The left breaking wave is Bowls. It's a great wave with
also a short right. It's either Bowls or 2nd Bay when surfing pohoiki
area. There are a couple other little secret spots in the area…but we won't be disclosing that info.
There
is usually always something to surf at pohoiki. It picks up all
swells from Southwest to Northeast.
All
east side spots generally are better in the morning hours due to
afternoon onshore trades.
SouthWest:
Kealakekua Bay:
Good spot if there is a South Swell working, but most times its
flat. Great for snorkeling and exploring. Bonus if there is waves. Most mornings will see a bunch of spinner dolphins frolicking in the waters.
Kahalu’u Beach Park:
Just South of Kona is a nice, flat reefed spot. On small
swells, it is usually for longboarding. It comes alive on south
swells, like most of Kona. If there is a South swell, you will find
all sorts of spots in Kona.
Note: Although the most popular on the Kona Side; I
would stay away from Banyans unless you're familiar with the area or a ripper. You're better off going elsewhere.
Westside:
Above Kona Town, near Natural Energy Lab (NELHA) is PineTrees. This
is where much of Kona goes on the weekend to hang out. Great Beach
Area and a few surfspots around. Either turn down the road for NELHA
or I think they just built a new road giving easier access.
NorthWest:
On the Kohala coast (Waikoloa Area) is Anaehoomalu bay (A-Bay). There
are two waves here, one near the Marriot, and the other near Hilton
Hawaiian Village. Both great waves but need a South to Northwest
swell to break.
Here is a video from the 2013 Winter at a spot above Waikoloa. Enjoy.
